Comments for Saab automobiles http://www.saabautosclub.com Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:49:31 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0 Comment on 9-3 2000MY Grille ASS for sale by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/9-3-2000my-grille-ass-for-sale/comment-page-1#comment-4870 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:49:31 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/9-3-2000my-grille-ass-for-sale#comment-4870 Bummer.  Try the classifieds on www.saabnet.com  You can place add in <br /> parts section .  I know the site gets a ton of traffic from saabsters <br /> and people place adds for their wrecks to sell as parts cars.  Good <br /> luck. <br /> <p>On 20 Mar 2002 12:29:50 -0800, jaredruck...@yahoo.com (Jared Ruckle) <br /> wrote: <br /> </p><p>- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -</p>>was a victim of a hit and run accident recently in seattle - no <br /> >injuries, but my 900S has a good deal of front-end body damage.  long <br /> >story short, the repairs would easily cost twice what the whole car is <br /> >worth.  so, i'm looking for advice on the best way to get the most $$$ <br /> >from my salvage. <br /> <p>>the car has a new transmission (that's 2 years old) that's the most <br /> >premium part on the car.  otherwise, the engine has 200,000 miles on <br /> >it, though there are some newer parts that might fetch a few bucks. <br /> </p><p>>any advice on how to best part this thing out?  classifieds? <br /> >junkyards?  repair/body shops? <br /> </p><p>>Thanks for your help, <br /> </p><p>>Jared <br /> <br /> </p> Bummer.  Try the classifieds on http://www.saabnet.com  You can place add in
parts section .  I know the site gets a ton of traffic from saabsters
and people place adds for their wrecks to sell as parts cars.  Good
luck.

On 20 Mar 2002 12:29:50 -0800, jaredruck…@yahoo.com (Jared Ruckle)
wrote:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

>was a victim of a hit and run accident recently in seattle – no
>injuries, but my 900S has a good deal of front-end body damage.  long
>story short, the repairs would easily cost twice what the whole car is
>worth.  so, i’m looking for advice on the best way to get the most $$$
>from my salvage.

>the car has a new transmission (that’s 2 years old) that’s the most
>premium part on the car.  otherwise, the engine has 200,000 miles on
>it, though there are some newer parts that might fetch a few bucks.

>any advice on how to best part this thing out?  classifieds?
>junkyards?  repair/body shops?

>Thanks for your help,

>Jared

]]> Comment on Hard start after new fuel pump install by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/hard-start-after-new-fuel-pump-install/comment-page-1#comment-4869 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:49:00 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/hard-start-after-new-fuel-pump-install#comment-4869 Thanks for responding, Keith. <br /> My mechanic specializes in Saabs. Both the key and the cranking have <br /> improved. Now it starts in two or three times when cold. (this is <br /> without turning the key part way first) <br /> The shop that towed me does a lot of work for me too and he is ready <br /> to look at the whole situation. <br /> Liz <br /> <p>- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -</p>"KeithG" <no...@earthlink.net> wrote in message <news:a7igc5$bii$1@slb1.atl.mindspring.net>... <br /> > Liz, <br /> <p>> Probably not the ignition causing the extra cranking. Your fuel pump has/had <br /> > a couple of check valves. One keeps the fuel rail pressurized even when the <br /> > car is off. If this check valve bleeds down, the fuel rail will loose <br /> > pressure and the fuel pump has to pressurize it again when you try to start <br /> > it. Long story short, this is probably the culprit. Either it was <br /> > disturbed/damaged when the pump was replaced or it was removed. The hard <br /> > turning of the key is important to fix. If it was manhandled, it may have <br /> > bent one of the pieces here. The towing company should pay to have it <br /> > disassembled and inspected/lubed and any bent parts replaced. Were the <br /> > repairs done at a shop that specializes in Saabs or a dealer? <br /> </p><p>> KeithG <br /> </p><p>> "Liz" <eaw...@ncia.net> wrote in message <br /> > news:6dda0fe4.0203201427.25e08b06@posting.google.com... <br /> > > Hi <br /> > > Yesterday I had a new fuel pump put in my 93 900S (the old one died) <br /> > > and today I noticed that it cranks about five or six times before <br /> > > starting when cold. Once it's been running it starts in about one or <br /> > > two times. I talked to the mechanic and he said it was the ignition <br /> > > switch (the guy who towed it cranked my key when he was loading the <br /> > > car. It turns kind of hard now). <br /> > > Any advice? <br /> > > Thanks. <br /> > > Liz <br /> <br /> </p> Thanks for responding, Keith.
My mechanic specializes in Saabs. Both the key and the cranking have
improved. Now it starts in two or three times when cold. (this is
without turning the key part way first)
The shop that towed me does a lot of work for me too and he is ready
to look at the whole situation.
Liz

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

"KeithG" <no…@earthlink.net> wrote in message <news:a7igc5$bii$1@slb1.atl.mindspring.net>…
> Liz,

> Probably not the ignition causing the extra cranking. Your fuel pump has/had
> a couple of check valves. One keeps the fuel rail pressurized even when the
> car is off. If this check valve bleeds down, the fuel rail will loose
> pressure and the fuel pump has to pressurize it again when you try to start
> it. Long story short, this is probably the culprit. Either it was
> disturbed/damaged when the pump was replaced or it was removed. The hard
> turning of the key is important to fix. If it was manhandled, it may have
> bent one of the pieces here. The towing company should pay to have it
> disassembled and inspected/lubed and any bent parts replaced. Were the
> repairs done at a shop that specializes in Saabs or a dealer?

> KeithG

> "Liz" <eaw…@ncia.net> wrote in message
> news:6dda0fe4.0203201427.25e08b06@posting.google.com…
> > Hi
> > Yesterday I had a new fuel pump put in my 93 900S (the old one died)
> > and today I noticed that it cranks about five or six times before
> > starting when cold. Once it’s been running it starts in about one or
> > two times. I talked to the mechanic and he said it was the ignition
> > switch (the guy who towed it cranked my key when he was loading the
> > car. It turns kind of hard now).
> > Any advice?
> > Thanks.
> > Liz

]]> Comment on Hard start after new fuel pump install by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/hard-start-after-new-fuel-pump-install/comment-page-1#comment-4868 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:48:59 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/hard-start-after-new-fuel-pump-install#comment-4868 Liz, <br /> <p>Probably not the ignition causing the extra cranking. Your fuel pump has/had <br /> a couple of check valves. One keeps the fuel rail pressurized even when the <br /> car is off. If this check valve bleeds down, the fuel rail will loose <br /> pressure and the fuel pump has to pressurize it again when you try to start <br /> it. Long story short, this is probably the culprit. Either it was <br /> disturbed/damaged when the pump was replaced or it was removed. The hard <br /> turning of the key is important to fix. If it was manhandled, it may have <br /> bent one of the pieces here. The towing company should pay to have it <br /> disassembled and inspected/lubed and any bent parts replaced. Were the <br /> repairs done at a shop that specializes in Saabs or a dealer? <br /> </p><p>KeithG <br /> </p><p>"Liz" <eaw...@ncia.net> wrote in message <br /> <br />news:6dda0fe4.0203201427.25e08b06@posting.google.com... <br /> </p><p>- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -</p>> Hi <br /> > Yesterday I had a new fuel pump put in my 93 900S (the old one died) <br /> > and today I noticed that it cranks about five or six times before <br /> > starting when cold. Once it's been running it starts in about one or <br /> > two times. I talked to the mechanic and he said it was the ignition <br /> > switch (the guy who towed it cranked my key when he was loading the <br /> > car. It turns kind of hard now). <br /> > Any advice? <br /> > Thanks. <br /> > Liz <br /> <br /> Liz,

Probably not the ignition causing the extra cranking. Your fuel pump has/had
a couple of check valves. One keeps the fuel rail pressurized even when the
car is off. If this check valve bleeds down, the fuel rail will loose
pressure and the fuel pump has to pressurize it again when you try to start
it. Long story short, this is probably the culprit. Either it was
disturbed/damaged when the pump was replaced or it was removed. The hard
turning of the key is important to fix. If it was manhandled, it may have
bent one of the pieces here. The towing company should pay to have it
disassembled and inspected/lubed and any bent parts replaced. Were the
repairs done at a shop that specializes in Saabs or a dealer?

KeithG

"Liz" <eaw…@ncia.net> wrote in message

news:6dda0fe4.0203201427.25e08b06@posting.google.com…

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> Hi
> Yesterday I had a new fuel pump put in my 93 900S (the old one died)
> and today I noticed that it cranks about five or six times before
> starting when cold. Once it’s been running it starts in about one or
> two times. I talked to the mechanic and he said it was the ignition
> switch (the guy who towed it cranked my key when he was loading the
> car. It turns kind of hard now).
> Any advice?
> Thanks.
> Liz

]]> Comment on PING Glenn, Danny and Dave W Re: Help with Ignition prob by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/ping-glenn-danny-and-dave-w-re-help-with-ignition-prob/comment-page-1#comment-4867 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:48:43 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/ping-glenn-danny-and-dave-w-re-help-with-ignition-prob#comment-4867 <p></p><p>- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -</p>Chip Thompson wrote: <br /> > Thanks for your reponses guys.  I fixed it this evening.  I still don't know <br /> > EXACTLY what caused the problem, but I went ahead and bought a new cap and <br /> > rotor and came home to troubleshoot.  Spark from main, and also at the <br /> > plugs, so it wasn't ignition (although for the life of me I couldn't imagine <br /> > why the tach quit).  Checked that all grounds were solid, volt meter showed <br /> > proper voltage at all points between dist and Hall sensor and ICU. <br /> > Continuity and resistance also checked in spec.  Still no start.  Plug on <br /> > dist where Hall effect doo hickey (technical term) plugs in was <br /> > deteriorating, so I unplugged it and soldered new leads on it, plugged it <br /> > back in, checked for continuity, and siliconed my new wiring job for water <br /> > fastness.  Still no start, so I started thinking fuel (good call, Danny). <br /> > Shot a couple of squirts of ether in the intake, fired right up, then died <br /> > when ether was used up.  Before I siphoned 12 gallons of gas out and <br /> > replaced the pump, I checked vacuum lines on intake and to the FPR - guess <br /> > what, one was cracked BAAADDD.  Replaced it, still no start, so I went to <br /> > the fuses, everything LOOKED okay, but I replaced the fuel pump fuse anyway, <br /> > praying that if it wasn't that, it was at least the pump and not the relay. <br /> > Voila, car started fine, ran for 5 minutes, and I took it for a spin around <br /> > the block.  AND the tach worked.  Must have been a combo fuel pump fuse / <br /> > Hall effect sensor connection problem.  Here's hoping it starts tomorrow <br /> > morning so I can catch my 5:55 am plane to Omaha!  Thanks for the <br /> > suggestions! <br /> <p>> Chip <br /> > 85 900 T 16V <br /> > 173K miles <br /> <br />Glad to hear it got sorted.  By the way - if you ever have to change the pump, <br /> you don't need to syphon the fuel out first.  I did a friends car with him, fuel <br /> tank was full, but luckily the parts in the area are plastic - no sparks <br /> likely.  We removed old pump assembly, found replacement pump only (much <br /> cheaper) installed it in the pump assembly and refitted, all with a tank almost <br /> full to the brim.  Biggest pain was removing the large holding ring - a real <br /> pain, and also the pipe unions to the pump - they are a snap fit, but one <br /> usually breaks if you are not careful - 1 has a filter inline, and one isn't <br /> available separately, which can mean a fiddly job if you happen to break the <br /> wrong connector.  I also found that removing the rear seat is a real help! <br /> (Saab 9000CD - saloon) <br /> </p><p>-- <br /> Regards, <br /> Danny <br /> </p><p>http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site) <br /> http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service) <br /> swap Z for above characters in email address to reply <br /> </p>

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

Chip Thompson wrote:
> Thanks for your reponses guys.  I fixed it this evening.  I still don’t know
> EXACTLY what caused the problem, but I went ahead and bought a new cap and
> rotor and came home to troubleshoot.  Spark from main, and also at the
> plugs, so it wasn’t ignition (although for the life of me I couldn’t imagine
> why the tach quit).  Checked that all grounds were solid, volt meter showed
> proper voltage at all points between dist and Hall sensor and ICU.
> Continuity and resistance also checked in spec.  Still no start.  Plug on
> dist where Hall effect doo hickey (technical term) plugs in was
> deteriorating, so I unplugged it and soldered new leads on it, plugged it
> back in, checked for continuity, and siliconed my new wiring job for water
> fastness.  Still no start, so I started thinking fuel (good call, Danny).
> Shot a couple of squirts of ether in the intake, fired right up, then died
> when ether was used up.  Before I siphoned 12 gallons of gas out and
> replaced the pump, I checked vacuum lines on intake and to the FPR – guess
> what, one was cracked BAAADDD.  Replaced it, still no start, so I went to
> the fuses, everything LOOKED okay, but I replaced the fuel pump fuse anyway,
> praying that if it wasn’t that, it was at least the pump and not the relay.
> Voila, car started fine, ran for 5 minutes, and I took it for a spin around
> the block.  AND the tach worked.  Must have been a combo fuel pump fuse /
> Hall effect sensor connection problem.  Here’s hoping it starts tomorrow
> morning so I can catch my 5:55 am plane to Omaha!  Thanks for the
> suggestions!

> Chip
> 85 900 T 16V
> 173K miles

Glad to hear it got sorted.  By the way – if you ever have to change the pump,
you don’t need to syphon the fuel out first.  I did a friends car with him, fuel
tank was full, but luckily the parts in the area are plastic – no sparks
likely.  We removed old pump assembly, found replacement pump only (much
cheaper) installed it in the pump assembly and refitted, all with a tank almost
full to the brim.  Biggest pain was removing the large holding ring – a real
pain, and also the pipe unions to the pump – they are a snap fit, but one
usually breaks if you are not careful – 1 has a filter inline, and one isn’t
available separately, which can mean a fiddly job if you happen to break the
wrong connector.  I also found that removing the rear seat is a real help!
(Saab 9000CD – saloon)

–
Regards,
Danny

http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply

]]> Comment on 9000 Aero worth – sorry, I'm in the UK by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/9000-aero-worth-sorry-im-in-the-uk/comment-page-1#comment-4866 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:48:11 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/9000-aero-worth-sorry-im-in-the-uk#comment-4866 "Nicko" <hannickremovet...@btconnect.com> wrote in <br /> news:NClm8.751$6q2.8434@NewsReader: <br /> <p>> I am going to need to sell my black Aug 1995 (N) CS Aero <br /> > shortly as I have found a good deal on a 9-5 estate. <br /> </p><p>> Black leather, 80,386 miles, full main dealer history. <br /> > Standard Aero spec. <br /> <br />Manual, automatic? <br /> </p><p>P. <br /> </p> "Nicko" <hannickremovet…@btconnect.com> wrote in
news:NClm8.751$6q2.8434@NewsReader:

> I am going to need to sell my black Aug 1995 (N) CS Aero
> shortly as I have found a good deal on a 9-5 estate.

> Black leather, 80,386 miles, full main dealer history.
> Standard Aero spec.

Manual, automatic?

P.

]]> Comment on throwout bearing? by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing/comment-page-1#comment-4865 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:47:39 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing#comment-4865 <p>Bob wrote: <br /> > If I paid hundreds of dollars in labor and they didn't bother to <br /> > replace a (cheap) throwout bearing, I'd be mighty peeved. <br /> <br />I am beginning to think I should be, but the clutch has been working <br /> great for two years. That's why I was hoping it's simply an adjustment, <br /> but from the responses I take it the throwout bearing is either good or <br /> bad, no in between. <br /> </p><p>The whirring sound began about a month ago, only when starting from a <br /> dead standstill, but it seems to be getting worse. <br /> </p><p>Thanks everyone for the feedback. <br /> </p><p>-jw <br /> -- <br /> 1984 900 S hatchback <br /> Rhode Island <br /> </p> Bob wrote:
> If I paid hundreds of dollars in labor and they didn’t bother to
> replace a (cheap) throwout bearing, I’d be mighty peeved.

I am beginning to think I should be, but the clutch has been working
great for two years. That’s why I was hoping it’s simply an adjustment,
but from the responses I take it the throwout bearing is either good or
bad, no in between.

The whirring sound began about a month ago, only when starting from a
dead standstill, but it seems to be getting worse.

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

-jw
—
1984 900 S hatchback
Rhode Island

]]> Comment on throwout bearing? by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing/comment-page-1#comment-4864 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:47:38 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing#comment-4864 The following fix is a real hack, but it fixed my 80 900T for two years (10k <br /> miles).  My throwout bearing was making noise and the clutch was good but if <br /> I replaced the bearing I was going to replace the clutch too, so I felt I <br /> had nothing to loose.  I used a can of spray chain lube with a long nozzle <br /> to spray quite a lot of lube into the area of the throwout bearing, gaining <br /> access through the little inspection plug.  The lube foamed and worked back <br /> into the bearing and fixed it for about 6 months when I repeated the <br /> procedure.  I pointed the car downhill and had to spray more lube then I <br /> thought it should take but it worked until I replaced the car.  The clutch <br /> continued to work perfectly. YMMV <br /> <p>Larry <br /> </p><p>"> > > > Mine is fine at idle with clutch disengaged, and with clutch <br /> engaged <br /> </p><p>- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -</p>> > > > fully. Works perfectly without the noise most of the time. I only <br /> get <br /> > > > > the whirring noice as clutch is engaging, starting to move from a <br /> > > > > standstill, and even then only under some load. It doesn't happen <br /> > every <br /> > > > > time I start off. <br /> <br /> The following fix is a real hack, but it fixed my 80 900T for two years (10k
miles).  My throwout bearing was making noise and the clutch was good but if
I replaced the bearing I was going to replace the clutch too, so I felt I
had nothing to loose.  I used a can of spray chain lube with a long nozzle
to spray quite a lot of lube into the area of the throwout bearing, gaining
access through the little inspection plug.  The lube foamed and worked back
into the bearing and fixed it for about 6 months when I repeated the
procedure.  I pointed the car downhill and had to spray more lube then I
thought it should take but it worked until I replaced the car.  The clutch
continued to work perfectly. YMMV

Larry

"> > > > Mine is fine at idle with clutch disengaged, and with clutch
engaged

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> > > > fully. Works perfectly without the noise most of the time. I only
get
> > > > the whirring noice as clutch is engaging, starting to move from a
> > > > standstill, and even then only under some load. It doesn’t happen
> every
> > > > time I start off.

]]> Comment on throwout bearing? by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing/comment-page-1#comment-4863 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:47:38 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing#comment-4863 <p>"jw" <johnwebst...@earthlink.net> wrote in message <br /> <br />news:3C9CB87B.BECD5BE6@earthlink.net... <br /> </p><p></p><p>- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -</p>> Grunff wrote: <br /> <p>> > "jw" <johnwebst...@earthlink.net> wrote in message <br /> </p><p>> > > Mine is fine at idle with clutch disengaged, and with clutch engaged <br /> > > > fully. Works perfectly without the noise most of the time. I only get <br /> > > > the whirring noice as clutch is engaging, starting to move from a <br /> > > > standstill, and even then only under some load. It doesn't happen <br /> every <br /> > > > time I start off. <br /> </p><p>> > No adjustment is possible. If the clutch is noisy when disengaging, it's <br /> the <br /> > > throwout bearing. Pretty simple to change. Might be worth changing the <br /> whole <br /> > > clutch, if it is the original. <br /> </p><p>> The clutch was replaced about 20K miles ago by a local shop. The bill <br /> > says they "removed clutch assembly and machine flywheel, and installed <br /> > new clutch assembly." Maybe they didn't change the throwout bearing... <br /> <br />If they went to the trouble of machining the flywheel, I'd be amazed if they <br /> didn't replace the throwout bearing. But you never know, unless you do it <br /> yourself  ;o) <br /> </p><p>Grunff <br /> </p> "jw" <johnwebst…@earthlink.net> wrote in message

news:3C9CB87B.BECD5BE6@earthlink.net…

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> Grunff wrote:

> > "jw" <johnwebst…@earthlink.net> wrote in message

> > > Mine is fine at idle with clutch disengaged, and with clutch engaged
> > > fully. Works perfectly without the noise most of the time. I only get
> > > the whirring noice as clutch is engaging, starting to move from a
> > > standstill, and even then only under some load. It doesn’t happen
every
> > > time I start off.

> > No adjustment is possible. If the clutch is noisy when disengaging, it’s
the
> > throwout bearing. Pretty simple to change. Might be worth changing the
whole
> > clutch, if it is the original.

> The clutch was replaced about 20K miles ago by a local shop. The bill
> says they "removed clutch assembly and machine flywheel, and installed
> new clutch assembly." Maybe they didn’t change the throwout bearing…

If they went to the trouble of machining the flywheel, I’d be amazed if they
didn’t replace the throwout bearing. But you never know, unless you do it
yourself  ;o)

Grunff

]]> Comment on throwout bearing? by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing/comment-page-1#comment-4862 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:47:37 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing#comment-4862 <p>Grunff wrote: <br /> </p><p>> "jw" <johnwebst...@earthlink.net> wrote in message <br /> > > Mine is fine at idle with clutch disengaged, and with clutch engaged <br /> > > fully. Works perfectly without the noise most of the time. I only get <br /> > > the whirring noice as clutch is engaging, starting to move from a <br /> > > standstill, and even then only under some load. It doesn't happen every <br /> > > time I start off. <br /> > No adjustment is possible. If the clutch is noisy when disengaging, it's the <br /> > throwout bearing. Pretty simple to change. Might be worth changing the whole <br /> > clutch, if it is the original. <br /> <br />The clutch was replaced about 20K miles ago by a local shop. The bill <br /> says they "removed clutch assembly and machine flywheel, and installed <br /> new clutch assembly." Maybe they didn't change the throwout bearing... <br /> </p><p>-jw <br /> -- <br /> 1984 900 S hatchback <br /> 150K miles <br /> </p> Grunff wrote:

> "jw" <johnwebst…@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> > Mine is fine at idle with clutch disengaged, and with clutch engaged
> > fully. Works perfectly without the noise most of the time. I only get
> > the whirring noice as clutch is engaging, starting to move from a
> > standstill, and even then only under some load. It doesn’t happen every
> > time I start off.
> No adjustment is possible. If the clutch is noisy when disengaging, it’s the
> throwout bearing. Pretty simple to change. Might be worth changing the whole
> clutch, if it is the original.

The clutch was replaced about 20K miles ago by a local shop. The bill
says they "removed clutch assembly and machine flywheel, and installed
new clutch assembly." Maybe they didn’t change the throwout bearing…

-jw
—
1984 900 S hatchback
150K miles

]]> Comment on throwout bearing? by admin http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing/comment-page-1#comment-4861 admin Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:47:36 +0000 http://www.saabautosclub.com/throwout-bearing#comment-4861 <p>"jw" <johnwebst...@earthlink.net> wrote in message <br /> <br />news:3C9B7F42.CDB9228C@earthlink.net... <br /> </p><p>> Hi, <br /> </p><p>> I inquired about this a while back, but my clutch is doing something <br /> > different than most diagnoses I've read on the subject of throwout <br /> > bearings going bad. <br /> </p><p>> Mine is fine at idle with clutch disengaged, and with clutch engaged <br /> > fully. Works perfectly without the noise most of the time. I only get <br /> > the whirring noice as clutch is engaging, starting to move from a <br /> > standstill, and even then only under some load. It doesn't happen every <br /> > time I start off. <br /> </p><p>> I assume this is still a throwout bearing problem, but maybe just an <br /> > adjustment? Clutch only has about 20K miles on it. <br /> <br />No adjustment is possible. If the clutch is noisy when disengaging, it's the <br /> throwout bearing. Pretty simple to change. Might be worth changing the whole <br /> clutch, if it is the original. <br /> </p><p>Grunff <br /> </p> "jw" <johnwebst…@earthlink.net> wrote in message

news:3C9B7F42.CDB9228C@earthlink.net…

> Hi,

> I inquired about this a while back, but my clutch is doing something
> different than most diagnoses I’ve read on the subject of throwout
> bearings going bad.

> Mine is fine at idle with clutch disengaged, and with clutch engaged
> fully. Works perfectly without the noise most of the time. I only get
> the whirring noice as clutch is engaging, starting to move from a
> standstill, and even then only under some load. It doesn’t happen every
> time I start off.

> I assume this is still a throwout bearing problem, but maybe just an
> adjustment? Clutch only has about 20K miles on it.

No adjustment is possible. If the clutch is noisy when disengaging, it’s the
throwout bearing. Pretty simple to change. Might be worth changing the whole
clutch, if it is the original.

Grunff

]]>