Saab automobiles

December 31, 2009

900T16S Intermittant Boost Problem

Filed under: Uncategorized — admin @ 4:48 pm

I have an 88 900T16 S which has developed a really annoying problem.
Sometimes it only boots to half way, or less. The next time I drive it, it
may be OK and fully boosting again. My garage has replaced the APC control
box, but this has not solved the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

3 Comments »

  1. James Borden wrote:

    > I have an 88 900T16 S which has developed a really annoying problem.
    > Sometimes it only boots to half way, or less. The next time I drive it, it
    > may be OK and fully boosting again. My garage has replaced the APC control
    > box, but this has not solved the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?

    > Thanks in advance.

    This seems to be coming up quite a bit lately…

    Check (in rough order):

    o All vacuum lines, everywhere

    o Your knock sensor – remove it from the engine
    block, tape it somewhere safe, and drive around

    o Your APC solenoid – first try unplugging it –
    you should get basic boost *all* the time.  If you
    don’t something else is wrong.  Listen (with the engine
    running) to it before and after the engine the engine
    is hot – if it is clicking, you need a new one.  Also,
    get a 12v (9v should work) battery, and connect the
    poles of the battery to the pins on the solenoid –
    with voltage applied across the pins, the solenoid
    should click once.  If it shudders or makes many
    noises, it’s shot.

    o Your cruise control – if the cruise control ‘ECU’
    is acting up, it might cause the APC to go into
    basic boost mode (normally, while the cc is on,
    you are limited to basic boost).  Also check all the
    vacuum lines to the cc unit in the fender.

    o On the same note, check the two pressure switches
    above the clutch and brake (one per pedal) to make
    sure they aren’t leaking vacuum.  Ideally, remove
    them and check that they are not permanently shorted;
    if they are, you’ll get basic boost.

    o Your turbo itself (VERY unlikely) – unplug
    the vacuum line between the turbo wastegate
    and the APC solenoid and drive around for a
    *tiny* bit – you should get uncontrolled boost
    (limited to ~15psi by the fuel cutoff).  If not,
    there may be something amiss with the turbo

    o Finally, some cars (I don’t remember what years)
    will go to basic boost when you hit the brakes.  So,
    check the brake light switch above the brake pedal
    and make sure it’s working properly.  If it’s not,
    BTW, your brake lights will be on all the time.

    Good luck…

    -Justin

    Comment by admin — December 31, 2009 @ 4:48 pm

  2. See http://www.townsendimports.com/turbo_folder/baseboostdia.htm

    A chattering APC solenoid is usually NOT indicative of a bad solenoid,
    the solenoid is only doing what it is told by the APC ECU from info from
    either the knock detector or the pressure transducer. The blue vacuum
    switch on the left fender has nothing to do with APC, it controls the
    upshift light on manual tranny 2.2 LH cars. A leak in it however, could
    lower boost levels. Never seen one leak however.  The red capped switch
    there is a part of APC, it limits the boost to base levels when the
    cruise is engaged. Swapping the electrical connectors between the two
    switches will cause base boost only, but this would not be intermittent.

    Check the wiring to the APC solenoid. It is common for, it to loose its
    insulation and if the wires touch, the signal to the solenoid is lost.
    The solenoid needs power and ground to open to bleed boost from the
    compressor side of the turbo from the wastegate so the wastegate doesn’t
    open and reduce boost.

    Comment by admin — December 31, 2009 @ 4:48 pm

  3. In article <906215614.26712.0.nnrp-08.d4e40…@news.demon.co.uk>,
      "James Borden" <ja…@jbsystems.demon.co.uk> wrote:

    > I have an 88 900T16 S which has developed a really annoying problem.
    > Sometimes it only boots to half way, or less. The next time I drive it, it
    > may be OK and fully boosting again. My garage has replaced the APC control
    > box, but this has not solved the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?

    > Thanks in advance.

    Your garage should not have gone to the expense (I believe around 300 pound)
    of replacing the APC box until all the inputs to the box had been checked to
    be OK. These are knock sensor, pressure transducer, engine rev’s of the back
    of the rev counter and I think brake sensor on 88 up cars. I would guess that
    the problem you describe is due to a knackered knock sensor. Unbolt sensor
    from side of engine block, wrap in a rag and then go for a drive. If the
    effect doesn’t occur then you know the culprit. Strangely I had a similar
    problem, whereby the boost would be let of suddenly and then wouldn’t come
    back on. This problem got worse and resulted in constant activation of the
    APC solenoid. It turned out that the pressure transducer had been sticking
    and eventually got completely stuck at 160 ohms. I replaced the transducer
    but also found I had to re-adjust the trim pots on the APC box in order to
    get the boost back up. In your case if this has been happening over a long
    period of time I would go for the faulty knock sensor hypothesis. Yours
    sincerely NJ Haughey

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    Comment by admin — December 31, 2009 @ 4:48 pm

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